Mount Margaret - Uncharted

Mount Margaret - Uncharted

Uncharted is a challenge series from Territory Run Co for the Greater Portland area that aims to get you out exploring new areas with pre-planned routes. While each area we highlight may not be new to you, we hope it inspires you to explore some lesser known areas.

HOW IT WORKS

1. Complete one of the listed routes below.

2. Log your run here. Once reviewed, you will receive an email with a merit badge. If you complete between the dates of September 1st - October 1st, this badge of completion awards you $10 in store credit for any Territory products.

3. For each challenge we will also offer a grand prize package. To be entered to win, complete the route between above dates, log it here, and tag us in a photo from your run on instagram.

4. To increase chances of winning grand prize you can also log that you visited post run locations listed below.

We will have Uncharted routes throughout the year and you will be able to collect merit badges from each. 

You can join the Uncharted Strava Group here.

MOUNT MARGARET BACKGROUND

Located in the northern part of the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument, the Mount Margaret Backcountry covers rugged terrain that includes ridges, peaks, alpine meadows and lakes with elevations ranging from about 3,000 to over, 5,000 feet.

The 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens dramatically altered the landscape, creating an other-worldly environment where you can observe the ongoing recovery and regrowth of vegetation and wildlife. Much of the flora and fauna is in various stages of ecological succession. You'll find a mixture of pioneering species such as alder, willow and lupine, along with more established species like Douglas fir and mountain hemlock. It also happens to have an abundant variety of wild berries including, huckleberries, thimbleberries, salmonberries, strawberries, blueberries, trailing blackberries, black cap raspberries and wild currants.

Our routes will start from Coldwater Lake which was created in the 1980 eruption. The natural outlet of Coldwater creek was blocked with volcanic debris. The US Army Corps of Engineers has done significant work through the years to ensure the stability of the lake. 

The 30 mile and 19 mile routes will also earn an incredible view of Spirit Lake. During the eruption, Spirit Lake received the full impact of the lateral blast of the volcano, causing a massive landslide that filled the lake with debris, raised its water level by over 200 feet and left thousands of floating logs on its surface. It's truly a sight to behold.

I would like to note, we are offering three distance options and those options truly increase in beauty as you bump up. If you are on the fence about which distance to do, I recommend going with the longer one as you will be greatly rewarded. Keep in mind that this is a remote backcountry area and water access is extremely limited. I recommend carrying lots of water and also bringing a water filter, like this one from Hydrapak we sell on our site that fits onto most standard running water flasks.

This area is wonderfully showcased by our friends at Daybreak Racing with their Backcountry Rise trail races. On the day we took photos for this installment of Uncharted we were reminded that the mountains make their own weather. Unfortunately this meant all of those photos were missing the best part of this area- the views. Thankfully Daybreak Racing and photographer James Holk were gracious enough to allow us to use some of their photos that showcase the stunning views. James's photos will be labeled as such when presented.

THE ROUTES 

 


11 Mile Route GPX File

Starting from the Coldwater Boat Launch, we will begin our route along the north shore of Coldwater Lake. This trail will look flat on the elevation profile, but it undulates as it moves through forest, fields of grass and creek drainages. This trail is beautiful, but it is not nearly as good as the rest of the trails in this area in terms of views and beauty. We will continue on this trail until we reach the Coldwater Trail on our right. This trail takes us across a bridge over Coldwater Creek and to the start of our big climb for the day. This creek will be your last reliable water option so if you need to top off, now's the time.

This climb drags on for a little bit so break into hiking pace, bust out the poles if you brought them and settle in as you climb up through the dense alder- not forgetting to grab some berries along the way.

As the climb begins to let up and break out of the dense vegetation, we will be taking a right onto S Coldwater Trail. This Trail will take us back to towards Spirit Lake Highway. Along the S Coldwater Trail you will see some nice views of Coldwater Lake below. You will also see some logging equipment from before the 1980 eruption that was abandond here. The photos here were taken by Steven Mortinson at the 2023 Territory Run Camp.

As you continue to descend, you will eventually make it to the S Coldwater Trailhead. This trailhead is currently closed to cars because of a washout on the Spirit Lake Highway. Take a right on the road from the trailhead and continue back past the gate. Continue on the road until you reach the Coldwater Lake Boat Launch on your right to return to your car. 


19 Mile Route GPX File

Our 19 mile route option also begins at Coldwater Boat Launch. Follow the trail along the lake until reaching the Coldwater Trail. Take a right and cross the bridge across Coldwater Creek. This climb is long and arduous- our biggest of the day by far. Where the 11 mile route turns off at S Coldwater Trail, we continue to climb. You will, however, be greatly rewarded for your efforts. The top of this climb offers some unbelievable views and landscapes. As I mentioned in the introduction, we got completely socked in when shooting photos for this route, as can be seen here:

I am going to move on to the beautiful photos taken by James Holk for Daybreak Racing's Backcountry Rise demonstrate the incredible area from here on out. As you climb past S Coldwater Trail and up to Ridge Camp, the terrain opens up to some beautiful alpine views. The lack of tall trees make the vistas spectacular. After climbing out of Ridge Camp you will eventually come to a corner over a little rock ledge. As you turn the corner you will see off into the distance a saddle that you are aiming towards. 

Photos courtesy of James Holk / Daybreak Racing

You will continue to wind around the the hillside and eventually pop up onto the sandy bench with a great view of Mount St. Helens. It will look like the trail goes in both directions here, but the continuation of the trail is only to your left. The right facing trail appears to be a social trail to a peak. Continue left towards another saddle visible off in the distance. I have commonly seen herds of elk and mountain goats in the drainage below. If you look closely you will see an impressive network of game trails formed by elk and goat. 

Photos courtesy of James Holk / Daybreak Racing

Climb up to this next saddle and you will get even better views of Mount St Helens, as well as views of Mt Hood to the south and Mt Adams to the east. You will see our next junction straight ahead with Boundary Trail. At the Boundary Trail we will take a right. There is a great view of St Helens Lake here, complete with its floating logs from the eruption. These logs float across the lake throughout the day and will change positions as the wind blows the water. 

Photos courtesy of James Holk / Daybreak Racing

Continue on the Boundary Trail with St Helens Lake below you on your left. You will eventually reach an epic keyhole in the rock that beautifully frames Mount Adams in the distance. Pass through the keyhole and climb up the ridge, Spirit Lake eventually revealing itself it all of its glory. 

Photos courtesy of James Holk / Daybreak Racing
We will continue on the trail until it begins to eventually descend, getting drier and dustier as we make our way towards the currently closed Johnston Ridge Observatory. 
Photo courtesy of James Holk / Daybreak Racing
From the observatory we descend the Hummocks Trail. This trail is very open and dry, marked by "hummocks"- literal chunks of the mountain that were blown all the way out here during the eruption. Continue on this trail all the way back to Spirit Lake Highway and take a left crossing the bridge over Coldwater Creek and returning to the Coldwater Boat Launch and your car.
Photo courtesy of James Holk / Daybreak Racing

30 Mile Route GPX File

This is the crown jewel route. Perhaps my favorite route in all of the PNW. It's hard, but it's worth it. The views are simply unparalleled. The fact that this landscape is in constant transition as it recovers from the 1980 eruption make it an even more spectacular adventure, one I find myself returning to year after year. Once again, water is very scarce on this route. Plan ahead and bring plenty of water with you.

Starting from the Coldwater Boat Launch we will continue along the edge of the lake. Once we reach the Coldwater Trail we are going to continue on the Lakes Trail heading up towards Snow Lake. 

Photos courtesy of James Holk / Daybreak Racing

Snow Lake marks the beginning of the lakes basin. This section is really what makes this area so incredible in my opinion and why I encourage you to try do the full 30 mile loop. These lakes will have you in disbelief that you are just a couple hours away from Portland. The views feel like something straight out of Jurassic Park. Continue along the trail passing above Shovel Lake as you take in the views.

Photos courtesy of James Holk / Daybreak Racing

The lakes keep coming at this point as we pass by Panhandle and Obscurity Lakes. We continue to weave our way through the basin. This area can get a little brushy, a testament to its remoteness. Eventually we will come to Grizzly Creek and then to Grizzly Lake. This is an important water refill spot. Be certain to top of your bottles here.

Continue climbing up to Bear Pass. This climb drags on a little, but you'll be done with it soon enough. As you crest the pass, you will be greeted with a gorgeous view of Mt St. Helens and Spirit Lake.

Photos courtesy of James Holk / Daybreak Racing

As you intersect the Boundary Trail we will begin wrapping around the south side of the Mount Margaret Backcountry. Here we will be treated to sweeping views of the Cascade Volcanoes as well as a diverse landscape marked by craggy peaks and stunning colors of autumnal huckleberry.

As you pass Bear Camp, there is a seasonal spring. Do not depend on this for water, but if it happens to be running, make sure to take full advantage. This is your last available water for the whole run.

As you continue on Boundary you will be passing several camps. The only trail junction you will encounter is Whittier Ridge. Make sure not to mistakenly take this trail as it is an unmaintained mountain pass with narrow, rugged trails and steep, exposed drop-offs. A fun adventure, but not recommended for those afraid of heights.

 Photos courtesy of James Holk / Daybreak Racing

As you continue along the Boundary Trail, take in the views of Spirit Lake below. After the 1980 eruption, the natural outlet of Spirit Lake was blocked by debris, raising the water level and creating a flood risk. To prevent a potential dam failure and catastrophic flooding, the US Army Corps of Engineers built a 2.5-mile-long drainage tunnel in 1985 to Harry's Ridge. This tunnel allows water to flow out of Spirit Lake into the North Fork of the Toutle River, controlling the lake's level. This is vitally important as it protects downstream communities from severe flooding.

Photos courtesy of James Holk / Daybreak Racing
Soon enough we will intersect the 20 mile route. From here we will continue along the Boundary Trail to Johnston Ridge Observatory and then take the Hummocks trail back to the highway. After a short distance on Spirit Lake Highway we will cross the road to the Coldwater Boat Launch, ending our epic loop through the Mount Margaret Backcountry.
Our sincerest thank you to Daybreak Racing and James Holk for the use of their photos. If you would like to explore this area in a more supported fashion, we recommend checking out Backcountry Rise put on by Daybreak Racing.

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