Loowit Trail
Distance: ~31 miles
Elevation Gain: ~7,000 ft
Best Time of Year: Late June - October
Permits: NW Forest Pass
The Loowit Trail around Mt St. Helens has many compounding factors that make it more difficult than it appears on paper. Although it’s more than 10 miles shorter than its neighbor to the south, the Timberline Trail, I would argue that it’s just as difficult of an undertaking. Technical terrain, constant sun exposure and limited water sources make this route a physical and logistical challenge.
Despite its difficulty this is an incredible and rewarding route. It offers other-worldly terrain and a surprising diversity of landscapes. Be prepared for a long day and start early to ensure success.
Choosing your time of year can be an important factor for this route- primarily because of the sun exposure. As long as the snow has melted out, late June to early July can be an excellent time to do the trail with beautiful wildflower blooms and reliable water sources. Late July through early September can be very hot and may not be a wise timeframe for those who do not handle heat well. All the photos from this guide were taken in early October. Fall colors are absolutely stunning in late September and early October on the trail.
There are multiple potential start points for the route, but I prefer going clockwise starting at the June Lake TH as it allows you to knock out the majority of the boulder fields on fresh legs. From the trailhead you will travel about 1.4 miles to June Lake and the intersection with the Loowit Trail.
After you break out of the trees you are beginning the technical and tricky-to-navigate boulder fields. This section of the route is marked by wood posts to help you find your way. The lava beds slowly relent and you find yourself on smoother trail surrounded by bear grass.
As you continue along the route you will alternate between forest and exposed sections. Eventually you will reach the Blue Lake Wash, a massive washout with steep dropoffs. Follow the new trail that detours lower on the mountain and descend the fixed rope into the gully, ascending a similar rope on the opposite side.
Continue your run through sometimes-forested, sometimes-exposed trail until you reach the South Fork of the Toutle River. This is a similar canyon to that of Blue Lake Wash, but offers a reliable water source (waypoint: 46.21024, -122.25495). Many water crossings on this route are too silty and could clog your filter. In my experience, the water on the South Fork has worked fine with my water filter. Fill up well here, you are about to begin an exposed stretch until your next opportunity for water.
This next section offers little in the way of sun protection. You will likely cross a few flowing water sources, but they are rich with silt appearing like chocolate milk flowing from the mountain. Enjoy this section as it offers sweeping views of the moon-like terrain. It is common to see elk herds roaming in this area.
As you continue on this exposed section you will begin to believe there could not possibly be a water source. However there is a reliable spring that flows and forms an incredible oasis in this barren landscape (waypoint: 46.22738, -122.16639).
Be sure to take proper time to recover here and hydrate and cool off. If you thought the last section was a slog, the next will feel two-fold. You will continue to wrap around the mountain in the heart of the northside blast zone which was obliterated in the mountain’s eruption. Far to your left you will see Spirit Lake riddled with logs that were knocked over in the blast.
Be careful to stay on the Loowit trail here as you will soon come to a junction with Windy Trail on your left. I have made the mistake of taking this trail by accident and it makes your difficult day a little bit harder. You will begin to climb aiming for a notch in the hills called Windy Pass. Just as the name suggests, this pass can indeed be very windy. Depending on how hot it is, it may be a welcomed respite from the oppressive heat you’ve endured in the last section. You will descend the backside of Windy Pass on loose rocks, being careful to stay upright.
After some meandering you will make your way into the Plains of Abraham. This section of trail is relatively smooth, but exposed as you continue to the junction with Ape Canyon Trail to your left. Again, be sure to stay on the Loowit Trail here.
You will get back onto some more technical lava fields here. It is possible to find water in this area, but it is not reliable and is very likely filled with silt. Continue on this section until you hit a short section of boulder field that eventually takes you back to the junction with the June Lake Trail. You can refill at June Lake if needed or continue the 1.4 miles downhill back to your car.